October 19th, Mazatlan, Mexico
This was my last entry before meeting Rick in La Paz. The year was 2001. Blog coming soon....
Hi All,
Just a quick note to say I made it to Mazatlan and I´m waiting on the ferry. I had a great morning in Tequila. I woke up early and was the walking the local market at 6:00am. I had a nice bowl of menudo and watched the town come alive. Descending to the coast things got much hotter and I´m looking forward to getting the keys to my cabin for my 18 hour journey towards La Paz.
I got some email from Rick yesterday and he is getting some stories on the Baja side as well. He was filling the truck up with gas using a gas can from my house. It wouldn´t run afterwards and he had to completely drain the fuel tank. I´m not sure which gas can he used but I know one was filled with used motor oil and the other with water! I think I´ll mark them next time:)
October 18th, Tequila, Jalisco, Mexico
Yes, there is a town called Tequila and I`m in it right now. It`s a small town about 60 km outside of Guadalarara. Tomorrow I hope to board a ferry in Mazatlan for La Paz. I meet Rick there with the truck and can stop riding (and start drinking beer:) if I want (I want!).
The last two days and been tiring. I left Oaxaca and briefly visited Monte Alban (Zapoteca ruins). I then got on the rode and was greeted by rain a a nail in the rear tire. It was leaking so I continued on for Puebla. I arrived and decided to continue and push through the capital. I got lost in DF at least three times. I keep falling off the Viaducto and going into an assortment of neighborhoods. The whole the time bike is choking for air and I`m really stressed. I made finally to the other side and stayed in Atlamemulco (spelled totally wrong). It was freezing at night and I was really thankful I didn`t send home my cold weather gear the day before in Oaxaca. I awoke to a crisp clear day and a better atitude. I had an early morning tamale sandwich, pulled the nail from the rear tire and hit the road.
I had a late breakfast on the plaza at Morelia. I got my shoes shined and watched people. I got back on the highway and ran into the Harley club from DF. We talked at all the rest areas. I got plastered by bugs and as I zoomed by the highway patrol. I arrived in Guadalara and made a weak attempt at finding a hotel. I was dying in my cold weather suit at this point and just decided to leave town. I then saw Tequila and recognized it has my home for the night. I`ve still got a cold and will probably call it an early evening again.
I`ve feeling some sadness as the trip nears its end. I awoke last night and stayed up for over an hour thinking of returning to the US. It`s been over a year and I think I`m nervous.
Brian
October 16th, Oaxaca, Mexico
Hello All,
I just arrived at Oaxaca after an 11 hour day. It was an interesting day with lots of ups and downs. The morning started with me finding a crack in the mounting brackets for the saddle bags. I´ve had these things overloaded for some time so I wasn´t surprised. I bound the bracket to the rear grab rail using rope and moved some weight around. It held today but doesn´t give me a good feeling. I´ve got about 1500 kms left so I´m hoping to just ride it out. There´s plenty of places that could fix it but I don´t want the delay.
I take back what I said about no fees in Mex. They got me at the first inspection station( I went through at least 8 today) for $20 for a temporary import of the bike. They took visa.
I rode for a few hours at first on a beat up, expensive toll road (even had a bridge out). I eventually came to a road block and a long line of trucks. I road to the front and found a local group blocking passage and demanding release of a political prisoner. I went up and talked to the guys for a while, real calm like. I started joking around with them saying I would break out there friend so I could pass. They still weren´t budging but they liked me. One of them was going to show me a way over the river down the road. I said I didn´t trust him and he had a rat face (joking). We laughed some more and they let me threw. I was then worried the truckers would get mad and just moved on quickly.
I then ran into some rain a major wind storm. I was getting hit by these burst that would almost blow me into on coming traffic and I slowed to only 60km/hr, which is crawling. It was at the istmus of Mexico at a place called Ventosa!
I then 250 km left to make it to Oaxaca. It was curvy the whole way and I was really tired. It was some great riding into the mountains though and I enjoyed the ride. I covered 684 kms total.
Oaxaca is cold but the town looks great. I´m going to take a light day tomorrow and catch a sight or two. I´m staying at the Hotel Posada del Centro.
October 15th, Tapachula, Chiapas, Mexico
Hello All,
I made it into Mexico today. It was a long day with two border crossings and about 500 clicks. That´s six border crossings in five days. Also the way is works You have to check out of each ocuntry when you leave, so that´s really twelve crossings. I´m really burnt out and glad that part is over. I got on the road today on the other side of San Salvador in El Savador at 5:00am. I made it throught Guatamala in 3 1/2 hours, using the pacific route. I´m staying at Hospedaje Don Bento in Tapachula. That´s five days and 2183 km. The borders are what killed me. And now for the Border Awards.
Worst Border - Honduras with El Salvador a close second.
I paid a $20 road tax (possible gringo tax) even though I only travelled 100 km in country. Both places took over an hour and I had to see at least 5 different people.
Best Border - Mexico
No fees, no motorcycle paper needed and free fumigation! What a deal. Customs even gave me suggestions on where to eat in town. It´s really nice to be in Mexico and I really feel at home here. Things are much better here, the food, streets. I even had a Tecate beer. I definitely have new found respect for Mexico.
Worst City (to date) - San Savador, major exhaust fumes and every other car/bus has a bent frame.
I´m not sure where I´ll go from here. I don´t even have a map at this point. Actually I have a permanent map of Mexico etched in my brain and I can think of many places to go.
I´ve got a really low bandwidth connections but will email all soon
Adios,
-brian
October 13th, Leon, Nigaragua
Hello All,
Thanks for all the wonderful email. I`ve been traveling now for 41 days and your emails have been a real form of support. It`s amazing how quickly the internet has become a "necessity".
Well I`ve been travelling for three days now and I`m in Leon, Nigaragua. It`s a real nice town and I had a light (300km) day. Thursday I got off to a late start and didn`t get on the road until almost three o`clock. I made it to David but I had to drive several hours at night to do it. I must admit it was a bit scary. The trees hand over the road and the headlights give me tunnel vision. I`ve also got real bad night vision after my lasik surgery. Anyways I went slow and obviously survived. The next day I traveled through most of Costa Rica. I followed the coastal route and it was fantastic. My interaction with wildlife invloves dodging them as they cross the road. I almost got a monkey, large snake and several sloths. Fortunately they all survived and all I have is the memory and story. I got a flat in the afternoon right at the hottest part of the day. I fixed in forty minutes with a lot of sweat.
Today I crossed the border around 9:00. It`s really hectic on the Nigaragua side. You have all these kids running at you trying to sell their services as a document handler. It`s not needed but they won`t leave you alone until you hire one. I paid $5 and had to see about 5 different people for stamps, fees and signatures. It is bit poorer here but the real difference is people are really surprised to see tourists. The bike always gets attention also. I`m getting tired of being the rock start actually. I caught a helluva a storm around noon. I stopped to put on my pants and it reall came down right when I was changing. I was off the main road so at least I wasn`t flashing to many people. I arrived in Leon around one o`clock to flooded streets and the daily cloud burst. An hour later the streets were more or less dry. I was thinking of pushing through the border into Honduras but Leon is worth a stay. It`s got some great colonial architecture of the same period as Antigua, Guatamala, which I`ll be passing through around Monday.
Overall things are going well. The days are like a rollercoaster as I worry about weather, accidents, thieves, while I admire the amazing world unfolding before me. It`s fun because I forget about everything else in the world. This is why I ride and the experience is tenfold in a place like this. I ask this question to myself a lot!
For the record I`m staying at the Casa Vana in Leon. It`s a nice place with a courtyard and working celing fan! Life`s simple pleasures. Tomorrow I hope to make it through Honduras and into El Savador closer to Guatamalan border. I`ll be email when possible at minimum phone calls to family.
I`m starting to take photos and will download a new set in a few days. Probably when I arrive to my motherland, Mexico.
Rick arrived in San Diego and heads south to La Paz, our meeting place, Monday.
Take care, Brian
October 10th, email to MC adventure news group
I´m not sure if anyone remembers me. Amyways, I´ve been traveling from Brazil to San Diego, california for the last five weeks and I´m currently in Panama City. I sent my motorcycle from Cuzco to Panama almost three weeks ago and I still don´t have it! THis has been one of the most miserable experience of my life. It´s gone three various stages of hopelessness. I initially paid $1200. This is a bit high but I thought I would get good service through DHL. Once I arrived in Panama they tried to charge me $1200 more dollars claiming the bike was hazardous goods. I didn´t pay and they sent it to Miami. It´s been through in the hands of three airlines so far. It´s in Miami now and they had it scheduled for a Taca flight that didn´t leave for a week later. I made have got it moved to a DHL flight today but I´m still unsure. I´ve spent countless dollars on phone calls in three countries and it´s stll not resolved. I´ve emotionally drained and no longer a fun person enjoying the culture and poeple. This has a snow ball effect I´ve noticed and I´ve been trying everything I know to break the emotional funk this has put me in.
Basically the whole system of frieght forwarders is doomed from the customer standpoint. Has with most other business in the third wolrd the consumer has no rights (don´t I sound like the ugly america now!)
I´m trying to understand the problem objectively. Part of the problems is the people you paid are in another country (assuming you fly out to meet the bike). The power of the receiving country appears to be very little. I had an insider at DHL Panama and it has done little good. Peru DHL had no concern for how the bike would get to Panama from Miami and they just "threw it over the wall" so to speak. I´m now dealing with the airlines directly, DHL uses other planes, there is no garanteed delivery date and very little recourse.
The worst part right now, assumming I do get the bike, is I have less than three weeks before I need to be at work in San Diego. Thats a lot of miles! Hopefully I get the bike tomorrow. I think I´ll feel better once I start riding again, I usually do.
thanks for letting me vent,
brian Young
Panama City
October 1st
Hi All,
Well it´s been a while since I sent out an update. the reason has been that I haven´t been travelling. I have however been enjoying myself in South/Central America. The shipping of the bike through DHL has been a real fiasco. I´ll spare you the details, but to say the bike is still in Lima and I hope it will clear customs today. Since my last email I spend several more days in Cuzco. I terrorized (poor choice of words) indian villages on dirt bikes in the sacred valley and finally went to Machu Picchi. I wnet only for a day trip, which was a poor choice and got less than two hours on site.
I then flew into Panama City, via Bogata and spent six days struggling with DHL. I did go to Isla Taboga for a day trip and also spent a day fishing on the Panama canal. Between the four of us we got 80 peacock bass and had a great time. Once things appeared to be in order with the bike I flew to Bocas del Toro on the carribean. It´s a really nice area with lot´s of islands. The water is great, it´s really laid back and I´m enjoying myself. I´m on my third day here but starting to get restless. I´m taking Spanish lessons from a Spanard at Spanish by the Sea. I´m also staying there for a reasonable $5 a day. It rains a lot here but it´s warm. I rented a bicycle yesterday and and rode through the countryside and found a nice beach for a swim. Panama overall has been swell. You can see signs of the US everywhere. You can drink the water in the capital, 7 digit dialing and they write the month out mm/dd/yy like the US. Big deal. It is also more expensive. I commonly pay $8 for a lunch. At least it´s not lambs head soup.
I´ve got some new photos on the site. Nothing from Bocas until I return to the capital this weekend.
October 1st
Todays special because it marks my half way point in the trip. I`m in Panama but the problem is with the motorcycle. Peru customs has just recieved the motorcycle and said it would take two days. I`m dissapointed but there is nothing I can do about it. I just checked out of my hotel and I`m heading for another town on the carribean side. Life could be worst. The weather has been great and I`m working on my tan. I went to Taboga Island yesterday and had a good time. World events continue to effect me as everyone else I`m sure.
September 21st
Hi All,
I'm on my third day in Cuzco and really enjoying myself. I have yet to see Machu Picchu but I took a city tour and I'm starting to make some friends. The big news is I am shipping my bike to Panama City! I need to get over the Darian Gap, I'm short on time and this solves the altitude problem. It makes the most sense and gives me a full month to enjoy Central America, make it back to San Diego and then into work (sigh). I'm a bit worried about weather as it's the rainy season but what can I do. This weekend I'm going to rent an NX650 motorcycle and go to a motocross race in the Sacred Valley (strange). I may even race if I can talk them into loaning me the WR400.
Monday I'm schedule to do the abbreviated 2 day Inca Trail hike. I'll then fly to Panama on Wednesday or Thursday depending on what tickles my fancy.
I just did some updates to my website, completing the mileage and expense log (19 days, 5289 km, ~ $1200) as well as pasting in all my old emails to the journal section.
http://members.cox.net/caetano62/
Today I'm going to treat myself to an Alpaca steak and perhaps a massage. I'm also going to cram in some spanish lessons soon. It's funny how many people think I'm Brazilian with my accent and mixing of words. Of course, I'm complemented.
cheers,
brian
September 18th
Hi All,
Well I've been travelling solo for the last three days and finally arrived at Cuzco. First day I got to Putre just outside of Bolivia. It's a small town with lot's of peace and quiet.
Day 2 I traveled through Bolivia and spent the night on Lake Titikaca. The scenery over the last three days can only be matched by the poverty. It's a grade worse that Chile, Argentina and the parts of Brazil I know the most. I decided to stay at the lake just to avoid the rat race of the city. Today I put in 9 hours on the bike to arrive here. I'm relaxing in Cuzco now which is a tourist mecca and has good food. The food been lousy to this point so it's important arfter a while. I had a sheeps head soup today that even turned me off. I have a photo somewhere at
http://members.cox.net/caetano64/images/the_trip/roll3/
This has stuff all the way back to the gieysers at Atacama. Today I had a short boat trip and then into Peru. Today was really intense. I was having one of those magic moments on the road early at 8:00am riding through these really cool villages, the pigs routing happily in the front yards and the kids all walking to school and waving as I rode by. I ascended out of the populated area and I came upon this couple walking. The guy saw me coming and moved in my path. I was going slow and he tried to knock me off the bike as I rode by. I dodged him and continued on. It was disturbing for me but I tired to shake it off.
Later in the morning I crossed into peru and was giving the custom "donation" to the local police and has I walked out he told me it was a counterfeit coin. I went back and got a real on from the lady who had just given it to me.
My scariest story of the day was when I almost struck this woman who ran in front of me as she ran across the road to chase her hat. She didn' look of course and they aren't really used to traffic on the roads. I see mostly into animals and small buses on the road. I had to run off the road to miss her and still clipped her lightly at I guess about 50 mph. She just picked up her hat and continued on. If I had really hit her it probably would have killed her. I'm not sure of I would have stopped, to be honest. I'm still stressed about it. I've off the bike the next few days and relaxing here. They have lots of trips to Macchu Picchi and other great places.
I'm going to get to my emails and update my site over the next couple days. I want to put mileage and expense to date. I need to get into central america soon. I'm going to check into flights for me and the bike to panama city.
take care,
brian
September 14th
Hello All,
Well I´m on my third day in Iquique and really need to get on the road if I´m going to make it back to US before the new year. I found a problem with the carburator that was killing my gas mileage and performance at altitude. Once that´s fixed I should be able to handle Bolivia and Peru now problem. I hope to leave tomorrow for one of them.
I had a great ride from San Pedro, despite dust storms and a 50 mph crosswind. I rode with Jane and David from Austrailian. They have been down here for 8 months traveling and we rode together on their last day. they are selling their bikes and flying home next week.
I hope everyone is doing ok back in the US. the Chileans have been very supportive to me and their heart reaches out to all Americans during this tragedy.
Also thanks again for all the email.
take care,
Brian
September 10th
I just completed the second leg of my trip. It was only 500km but I`m wipped out and need another day off already! I did make it and I`m doing great.
I left Salta a bit late yesterday. It was drizzying and I could get out of bed. I got on the road and headed west for San Pedro de Atacama. For those yiou don`t know it`s situated in the Atacama desert, the driest spot on the planet. I was here two years back, almost to the day and vowed I would return on a mc.
About 30 clicks out of twont eh climb began. I got water a a checkpoint because I forgot at the last gas station. It started as a dirt road and then went to some nice asphalt for about 100km. As I climbed the bike predicatable started to run like hell. I took out the first snorkle to the two air filters and continued on. It keep getting worse (couldn`t go over 40 km/hr) so I took out the aircleaners, two, and was able to hold 100 km/hr again. The intakes had this incredible roar like a semi crossing the Andes! I made it to San Antonio de los Cobres and woofed down a bowl of gruel. I gassed up and filled an extra 5 liters because I would have 340 clicks to San Pedro and gas. It was already afternoon and I was starting to worry. I continued on (no choice right¿). The scenary was incredible. I was cruising along at 13K feet plus in altitude surrounded by snow covered peaks. I was following this train line (tren de los nubes, highest train route in the world). I had this really strong, gusty wind that kept wacking me when every I got lazy. I also would come upon these dust pits in the road that would swallow the bike up and I would almost crash from the weight, wind and what ever. It was like getting stuck in mud but ti was dust! I finally got to the Argentina border point and got delayed for about 45 minutes as they processed these four trucks. When we left together I tried to get them to hold up the trucks so I could go first. they went first and I had to pass these four trucks on this windy pass. I passed them on the right and left. The dust they were kisking up was terrible and I could see. The bike and I were sucking this up unfiltered anbd it was hell. I got by them quick though and raced to the Chilean border at Passo Sico.
These guys were cool but it still took almost 30 minutes. You can see the how late in the day it was in the photos. I waas rushing them and joking around because I was on the adrenilin pump of my life. The wished me luck as I sped off into the setting sun. The temperature was dropping like a rock and with the wind it was below freezing. My riding gear kept me warm except my fingers got numb a bit.
I was about two hours outside of San Pedro with about an hour of daylight ( breaking rule number one). I love a good challenge though and decide to go for it. I`m totally focused and but the scenary is a big distraction. It was like nothing I had every seen. I tried to stop and take a few shots but I was racing for my life.
Well the sun went down and I stopped to change out my smoked visor on my helmet. When I did I realized I was getting a flat. I quickly pulled out the fix a flat and gave it a blast. I continued on but it was no use. I see the head of a big nail poking out of th rear tire. I give in for the night, pitch the tent and pass out.
I awoke at 5:00am this morning to my nightmare and proceeded to put in a new tube. I only had a bicycle pump and bare minimum for tools but here I am! I was on the road by 8:00 rolling into San Pedro on fumes around 10:00 but not after a unintended detour through Salar de Atacama.
I`m now in a some hotel with a bunch of Europeans. This town is great for guided trips into the desert but now for stocking up on anything real like inner tubes and a good map. The town is full of tour companies but you can`t find a real map! those who know me can here me how I complained now. They also don`t want my Argentinian pesos! So it looks like I`ll be taking off to the coast. I`m not up for more highland adventures right now and need to restock and rest. I think I`ll stay here for one more day and rest. The town isn`t perfect. It`s really hot (figure that!). It`s split between the really poor and rich adventure tourists (me too I guess?) They got good food and the hotel is really laid back. I think I`ll head to the coast and make my way to Lima like I had thought, or go direct to Cusco is another option. Need to sleep on it first. I`ll check in before I leave the area.
I`ve got the raw photos at http://members.cox.net/caetano64/images/the_trip/roll2/
I`m lazy right now but will pick some good ones for a leg2 page.
-brian
September 8th
I finally got some new photos from the trip. You can see them under "the trip" sub menu, leg 1. I also put the raw files under http://www.geocities.com/caetano62/images/the_trip/roll1/ until I can get those stashed somewhere else.
Today was quite busy for a day off. I think I`m ready for Atacama though and later into Bolivia. I got some new dirt oriented tires and few other things sorted out, like laundry. I just had a big steak and I`m ready for bed. Tomorrow I hope to reach San Pedro de Atacama and stay in the highlands for several days (it`s quiet there) so I`ll probably be out of contact other than a phone call to family. I promise to get back to everyone on email sometime soon. My next destination is Cusco, Peru by next weekend.
September 7th
Hello all and greetings from Salta, Argentina,
I got here this afternoon and I`m having a great day. I`ve covered 850 km yesterday, 514 today and 2813 total in five days. I would like to do a breakdown on expense and gas mileage, maybe tomorrow. I think I`m going to stay here for a day and enjoy the town. It`s historic, clean, appears safe and they´ve got cable modem access for $2 hour! She´s going to let me download photos too so the web site will get updated tomorrow and they even have herba mate.
It`s been an interesting two days. I made some serious time out of Pousadas yesterday. It`s real flat and open so I really tested the limits of the bike. I can criuse at 150 km/hr all day long. The problem is the bike sucks gas (30mph verses 40mph going slower) . That`s a big hit when gas is costing $4.00 a gallon! I can`t go slower though (no patience yet) so I charge it and forget it. Really it`s not a money issue so much as a range crisis. I`m running into these stations on reserve most of the time. I know I`ll run out at least once on this trip but I`m sure it`ll make a good story.
So yesterday was real flat with lot`s of cotton farms and animals grazing along side the road. They also have a lot of birds, especially in the evening and morning. I nailed a dove yesterday evening a full speed. He hit me in the shoulder and exploded in flurry of feathers. It felt like someone hit me with a baseball and the mass/velocity match up about right. It happened just outside of a town called Poloma, go figure... I killed a another green bird this morning with my foot. I know the windshield won`t last long at this rate.
So I found out last night when I was rolling into Suncho Corral at 6:00 after a 10 hour day that I took a wrong turn about three hours back. I got a room at the only hotel in town ($10) and called it a night. Pancho burned some wood under the heater and I had a warm shower. I steered my way back toward Salta this morning via this other "more direct" route. The morning was cold with dense fog (almost as bad as rain). I start out on this muddy road with animals everywhere. I keep splitting up these herds of goats. Fortunately I had just filled up. After 200 clicks and not a soul on the road there are all these signs saying the road is closed. I can`t turn back as I don`t have the gas (or patience again). I go around countless road work projects with signs saying I can`t be here. I finally ask some guy on a bike with a shotgun (bird hunting) and he tells me this is the new road. I keep pushing on pass road workers and pop out on the other side and roll into a gas station on fumes. It was exciting though stressful. The rest of the way into Salta was totally modern with high speed rolling sweepers. I also ascended into the Andes from the flat lands west into a strong headway. I`m not sure of the altitude but I like this town. I`m staying at this hotel just away from downtown and the retired couple running it talk your ear off. I`ll go on a photo shoot tomorrow morning and get it on the web.
I just pulled $300 out of the ATM and transfered the money off checking through internet access (que chiqi!). This is the type of town that drawns me to this part of the world. A nice blend of the old and new. Pedestrian streets (peatonales) with cafes, stores and outdoor vendors balanced with musuems, churches and parks. Most importantly people walking and mixing together from all levels of society. I really hate how isolated Americans live. Unless of course it`s Kensington and Bob lives next door:)
Enough of the social commentary I need to decide on my next destination. The way I see it I have two choices, Chile or Bolivia.
I already know the Chilean route from two years back. It`s dry, barren, has a hot spring about a half a day away(big bonus), is safer(another big bonus), has a beach resort on the way with lots of exotic imported Japanese motorcycles, and is closer to Lima where I may need to order a set of tires from the US. I can order the tires and go to Cusco/Machu Pichu by bus for a week and return to install them.
Bolivia is a marvelous unknow to me. I`ve heard wonderful things of the Lake Tikicaka but also have some fear of the poverty. I`m also not sure how to coordinate the tire thing. I will need them soon. I want to get into the indigidous culture but will have plenty of other opportunities further north. Ican hear myself talking my way out of it. Actually I can still head into Bolivia from Chile alter so it`s not cut in stone of I go to Chile. Most people here ( I poll people on the street when every I have a chance) vote for Chile because they are all jonesing for the beach. Oh, let me not forget about weather, which reminds me to check it now for La Paz and Inquique. They`ve got serious weather in the Andes. I`m doing well with the cold. I put in my liner and I`m now using my warmer gloves but rain with cold would just kill me. Don`t have to worry about rain in the Atacama! Hmmm. La Paz min/max 32/56 F and rain, Iquique 54/67 F and sunny. Chile here I come! Pablo let`s meet in Iquique again.
So I`ve rambled sufficiently for now. That you so much to all for the great email (19!). I´ll try and get back to all of you personally by tomorrow. It`s means a lot to here from you and really made my day.
September 5th
I crossed into Argentina today. I had a lite day actually burning just over a tank of gas (330 km). I saw Foz Iguacu in the morning and then crossed the border into Argentina. It was where they filmed the "The Mission" with Robert Dineiro. I found this on the web.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/6440347/6440361FIhIOXmtIe
It´s a incredible force of nature but the hightlight was when I saw this butterfly sucking from a flower like a hummingbird. He had a little white beak. I think I have it on my camara.
I´m in shock at the loss of Portuguese right now but I´m recovering fast. I had one document stop by the National Guard. He thought I was Brazilian and I keep saying Obrigado to all the officials. Í´m staying in Pousadas at the City Hotel. This part of Argentina is very green and has rolling hills. there is a lot of timber industry and I am basically following the border between Argentina and Paraguay divided by the Paraguay River. I insulted a shop owner this evening when I was buying a clock and say I could get it cheaper in Paraguay if I just would cross the border. Everthing has these official import stamps on them. The peso is tied directly to the dolar so my expenses just went up by about 50%. I asked the lady at the border ¿cuanto cuesta un Big Mac aqui? Sometimes my humor doesn´t quite cut it with the locals. I did have a good time weighing the bike today. I apssed this scale with a bunch of locals sitting around. I´ve got a great photo of myself and the owner. He said the bike weighed 300 kilos! That´s 660 pounds. I know the bike weighs 22 kg dry and I had a full tank of gas. No wonder I´m so tired.
I´m getting a good routine going now and keeping a daily journal and then I search for an internet cafe which so far as been within walking distance. You´d be a fool to bring a computer on a trip like this. I hope to be in Salto in two days and then take a day or tow off. It´s up in the Andes and I´ve heard good things. I can then decide Chile or Bolivia. I´m leaning toward Bolivia right now but would love to go through Chile again also.
I caught some rain today. I stopped and put on my boot covers but forgot to shut my sleeve vents and got slightly wet before I figured it out. the gear worked great and I never got cold. I´ve been real luck with weather so far. Look for email from Salto in two days.
September 4th
I'm at Foz Iguacu. Going to the falls tomorrow (search on the internet for photos!) and then hope to cross into Argentina tomorrow. I'm staying at Hotel Bastos 55 45 574 5839.
Today I covered 400 miles in 9 hours (45 miles/hr average). I'm tired but other than that feel fine. The road from Cutritiba is two lanes only and had 7 tolls! they are doing lots of road work and thus block traffic in one lane and time share the other. They make the last guy carry a batton which he passes to the road worker. Sometimes they would let me through and ride the shoulder into oncoming traffic. Saved sometime but dangerous. Foz Iguacu is a border town with Paraguay and Argentina. They ahve alot of tourist and the motoboys chase you down and try and sell you on "their"hotel. It makes me nervous espeically when you are tired and they are two on the bike. This is how they "bike jack" you in Sao Paulo. I got a great htoel from one of them though and for about $13 a night. Crossing into Argentina tomorrow.
September 3rd
I made it to Curtiba fine. It was a six hour ride over familiar roads. the bike is running great but very heavy. I[ve been ditching unneccessary things like spare underwear and spare parts to lighten the load. I[m off to Foz Iguasu now and the main toll road. Should make it by night fall and will report in before leaving that area.
Saturday, September 1st
I´m at work putting the final touches on things. I leave
tomorrow morning. I woke up this morning with a big hole in my chest.
I´m feeling better now but let´s just say I´m feeling
the lost of this place in a big way. Getting on the road is going
to be a good thing. Tonight I hope to take it easy and see a movie
with friends.
Wednesday August 29th
It's been a while since I wrote anything here. I've been
so busy getting ready and just haven't made time. Well the bike is
ready and I'm just closing up business here and saying my good byes.
That of course is the hardest part. I'm really going to miss my friends
and this time in my life. It's over now but I'm very gratefull to
have this experience. I had a dream I was at my house last
night. But my house had somehow moved to the jungle and I had several
ponds in front with alligators. I guess my house had moved to Brazil!
Interesting...
It's raining this morning. I like rain but it's taking on a different meaning now and I can't help but see myself on the bike in the street that god I bought that new cordura pants and jacket. I've decided that I'm leaving through Iguassu Falls. It's one of Brazils great destinations that I have yet to see and then I can exit through Argentina which should be less of a shock that the "death train" through the Patanal swamp.
Today we have the farewell celebration for Attaur, Bob and myself. Here's where you give a speech. Somewhat nervous.
Time to work on the rest of the site before my DSL get's shutdown.
Monday August 6th
I just closed my Banco do Brazil account. Three lines and over
an hour. Just thought I`d record the moment.
Sunday August 5th
I`m at work and seem to be doing anything but work. I desperately
need to finish this dlt script but has usual the system is busy (yes on
sunday) I should have stayed late on Friday but that`s tough.
I just got a letter from Ashlee in San diego and that really made my day.
It`s nice to knwo that I`m not forgotten. The trip is coming together
well, at least mentally. The mechanics are working on the bike
and seem competent. Right now the biggest hurdle seems to be staying
focused at work. I can`t blow this because bascially my whole way
of life depends on this. I spoke with my HR rep on Friday and it
was so refreshing to feel like someone was on your side for a change, instead
of fighting for basic things all the time.
July 26th lunch
It´s interesting the emotional cycle that I am experiencing lately.
I went to one the mtorcycle shops last night and starting my usual actics.
I got everyone real excited and the just wouldn´t stop asking questions
and I was late for my portuguese lesson. Today after dropping the
bike off I was tense and today I just want to go home and hide. Yes
it is getting serious and near. I think actually getting on the road
is going to be a relief. I need yoga...
I´m now operating under an August 31st departure date. My
present concern is getting the bike ready. I ordered some parts over
5 weeks ago and they have not arrived. To me this tells me a serious
breakdown will end the trip as I won´t be able to get parts.
The shop that is doing the frame work seems reliable. They are racers
so I trust them more. I´m having the back subframe reenforced
because I´ve spoken with several people about breakage. I also
heard about a week area in the motor mount and the fuel probably I am experiencing
was happening on another Super in the shop. Better to find out now
than.....
July 22th Sunday evening
The news of last week finally caught up with me this weekend.
Saturday morning as I was getting ready to go to Sao Paulo for parts I
noticed I was experiencing a lot of anxiety. Basically it hasn't
gone away all weekend long despite a relatively uneventful weekend.
Sao Paulo didn't help. That place is clearly hell on earth for me
and downtown is clearly it's worst side. The mtorcycle district would
be a great place to hang out if I was constanly fearing for my life.
There are lots of savage yards and parts a much cheaper than elsewhere
and most importanly available. After dropping almost
a grand for the saddlebags and a few other items Mark and I were too exhausted
to stick around. We made one wrong turn and it took almost 20 minutes
to recover. The highlight of the day was when this wild biker on
the tricycle zooms by us, locks up his brakes and then speeds around the
corner. I swear it was a scene straight out of Mad Max. Anyways
back on this stress I'm feeling. I know it related to the trip.
It's resonable, this is a big deal! It now looks likes it has been
moved forward and that I'll be leaving I think around August 21st after
retruning from Recifee. I'm really upset because it looks like I
will just miss Fabiola and Eduarado returning from the US. I'm really
going to lobby to stay another week just so I can see them. The new
schedule has really motivated me. I'm hoping that with some good
planning and a healthier lifestyle I can beat the stress. I'll soon
find out.
July 17th afternoon
What a day. Well I wasn't psychosomatic and I left work and went
home sick. Having a doctor at work is really nice and saves a lot
of time. I've got some sort of stomach virus. the big news
though is they told me that they want the ex-pats to leave early.
It actually felt good to hear it and I realize now that I'm really ready
to get home. Actually I have a lot of anxiety associated with the
trip and I hope that will go away once I actually get on the road.
Of course this pushes my schedule up a bit but I'm don't think I need to
do to much to get ready. My back is much stronger and I just need
to keep hitting the gym consistently. So I finally got some Amazon
shots up and tweaked the menu bar some more. Things are moving along.
They other funny thing was I found some unopened mail from my mortgage
company and it had a check for $460 that expired yesterday. I called
to get another sent and that was a pleasant surprise. I think I'll
go buy the saddlebags this weekend in Sao Paulo.
July 17th
Tuesday morning, up at 4:30am. I didn't sleep very well because
I made this spicy curry dish and it didn't sit well with me. I updated
my menu bar on the web-site last night but sorely need to update the content
also. I need to get the Amazon trip up as it was quite memorable
however right now I'm preoccupied with a newer event. This last weekend
another ex-pat fell victim to violent crime. This makes almost a
third of us, including myself with direct experience of violence here.
It's quite sad for me as I love this country and the people yet cannot
ignore these events. I was already getting homesick Sunday and this
makes me want to go home. I wonder what the Ericsson response will
be? I keep thinking we are going to get pulled at a moments notice
(I don't want this).
On a lighter note I got my certificate from the networking class I took at Unicamp. It was nice to feel the accomplishment of taking that class in Portuguese and I can finally submit the expense. Of course the Real is worth less today than 6 months ago. (2.6 now!).
I'm still not sure what to do with this journal. I know that people will read it and I find myself holding back sometimes, but I still what to ramble and it's nice to share some of this.
I think I'm getting sick today. My body is getting stiffer by
the hour, much more than a Saturday bike ride deserves. Staying home
and watching movies all day sounds inviting. Or perhaps I'm psychosomatic(sp?)
and just want to withdrawn after hearing about the crime. I swear
it's really occupying my thoughts right now and I'm sure it has the same
affect on everyone else, including the Brazilians. I wish my new
books would get here...
July 5th
Not much new. I got frustrated at one of my co-workers today
and lost my patience. Things just aren't moving like I would expect.
Later I realiazed what I really was upset about was my own progress and
I was projecting it upon him. He was not totally undeserving himself.
Anyways I'm bored and don't really feel like working out and I'm done reading
for the night. I didn't here from Jeff today again and I'm starting
to worry about him. Time for a work phone call.
So what do I want out of this next trip. Relax, explore and talk with more Brazilians? I'm sounding bored and despite my enthusiasm today I not real excited right now. I think I'm worn out on fun and starting to feel my life is on hold in some ways here. I think of not arriving in SD for up to 5 months and I get impatience. Of course I've got manythings to keep me busy but that's my nature. I think the music path should be next. time to surf for a while...
July 1st
Wow it's July. Normaly I would be upset about missing the 4th
but I'm leaving for five day in the Amazon on Friday. Now that I think
about it last year I missed passed the fourth in Kransnodar, Russia.
I have a feeling amazonia is going to be a real different experience from
the civilized Brazil that I have been living to date. It's Sunday
and I'm having a great weekend. I think part of the reason is I'm
stayed home at night and went to bed early. This has enabled me to
do more of what I like during the day like exercise and Samba! Yesterday
after a great mountain bike ride in the country a group of us met up at
City Bar. I then talked serveral of the Brazilian to take me to another
bar at Rua do Samba. It was about five in the afternoon and the place
was just hoppin with live Samba music and lot's of dancing. I haven't
had much practice with Samba (only at Carnival in February) but the rhythm
was quite easy to catch and it is inpossible to sit still. Soon we
were dancing and I even recognized a few of the songs from CD's I had listened
to in San Diego. This is always very rewarding for me because it
connects my San Diego live with my Brazilian life. Also sinbce everyone
else knows the words it give me a rare chance to sing along with everyone
else. One of the new focus for my Portuguese will be studying the
lyrics to some of my favorite songs. They always to a great story
about a part of history or a lost love. I was very inspiring to me
and I called Rick up as soon as I got home. I didn't have my camara
and it would be really awesome to make a short recording. I did make
a few calls to friends on the cell phone and let them here the music.
too bad I don't have international dialing. This moring as been wonderful
and I think I'll be going to Sao Paulo today with Rodrigo, Cinthia and
his sister. I hope to catch some Chorinha (little cry) in
a local park and I will have the camara. I'm starting to plan a slight
restructure on the web site. I need to break out the different sections
into a new layer of frames since the menu frame is growing fast.
June 25th CRASH!
This is proving to be a great time to write a few thoughts and update
the site. I just uploaded some great impages of my "rides" from yesterday
and this morning. What a mess of course full of story. I took
off yesterday afternoon after wasting most of my precious Saturday em
casa. The plan was to do my favorite loop through some of the local
back roads. I start my shooting off on this dirt road that wraps
through one of the local farm camps. I´m not sure what to call
these places but they look like immigrate camps. They are very poor
and the people look quite suprised to see me. I´ve cut through
before and now know the route. I blast through some waving kids and
jump onto the railroad tracks. I follow the railroad tracks (between
the rails) for about a mile were the lead to this great old train station.
I refuse to believe that this motorcycle is not a dirt bike and I would
later pay the price. I stop for some photos leading up to the station
and and later find out I left my wallet on the tracks. I take a few
shots and then continue on to talk to the guy checking me out from the
platform. His name is Ricardo and we talk for while (after making
friends with big dog). I asking him joking when the next train passes
through and he tells me in about an hour! That would have made a
good story. Anyways I meet his son, Ricardo also and take off.
Later I end up in Jaguin Gijo(spelling´s way off) and decide to get
some gas. He gets up to 6 reyes and I realize I don´t have
my wallet. I have 4 reyes in change and he thinks I´m trying
to rip him off. I finally leave my cell phone and say I´ll
come back them the next morning. So I get up today at like 4 o´clock
and return to the train station because I think that´s where my wallet
went. I´m blasting back in on this great road enjoying the
morning ride and I think to myself, I´m going to drop this
beast someday and it´s going to hurt. Two minutes later I come
in hot on this corner. I brake and slide and brake and slide more
but it no use. I see a strong barbed-wire fence coming my way fast
and decide cold wet grass will taste better. I pick myself up laughing
and then try and pick up the beast. Just my luck I filled the tank
that morning. What a pig. I fail to right her the first attempt
and then remove my helmet for a second try. Gas is everywhere and
I finally mange to get it on the kickstand. The forks are stuck sideways
because the fairing is cracked. Broken mirror, turn signals and bent
handle bars complete the parts list. I think I´ll patch the
fairing with fiberglass. The tank survived unscathed fortunately.
I´m actually relieved to get the first crash out of the way.
I didn´t get hurt (I was in my full leather outfit). I tweaked
the bike into shape and returned to the station. I find my wallet
which really made my morning at this point. I then return to the
gas station and pick up my cell phone. I´m at work now with
dirty pants and a grin on my face. (see ride)
-brian
June 23rd
Saturday morning and I'm at the terminal. What a geek!
I'm trying to catch my mood and daily activities a bit for the record.
Saturdays are one of my favorite days here because I start the day out
real slow (most days I do actually). They are especially nice if
I don't go out drinking the night before (figure that!). Anyways
after Maria, my empregada arrives I usually go out for a walk around
the neighborhood. Sometimes breakfast at Romana or a yoga class.
I then stroll through the local market which is on Saturdays and is just
three blocks down the street. I buy some fruit and maybe a pastel.
I then route my way over to the feira hippi to stopping at some
of the shops along Rua Maria Monteiro. It's basically a craft
fair that goes on over the weekend. They got lots of booths, good
food and it's gret for people watching. I grab a bite here also and
listen to some peruvian muscians. Route back home through the City
Bar around noon and make some phone calls. Today I'm going to start
with yoga.
Last night I went out with Denise. We had a nice time and I hadn't seen her for a while. We went to an egyptian resturante and talked a lot. Our favorite line for the night was "change the subject". I'm not sure how to interpret that for now but it was funny at the time. We nver did find the resturante "Acaraje falou". We spoke Portuguese the whole night which was a switch for us and a sign for me that I'm speaking better.
I'm feeling like I'm moving into another work crisis. Basically I'm not feeling appreciated at work and have no real leadership or goal that I'm working toward. this has been a pattern for over three years now, which in itself is incredible. On a short-term basis I need to just hang in there through October but I alos really need to walk out of here with a sense of accoumplishment, beyond the personal level. I'm going to make a point to bring it up with my superiors on Monday.
And what more for the weekend. I think a good motorcycle ride is on order if I'm going to ever get ready for this trip. It amazes me how little I ride locally. I need to really connect with some of the local bikers really and that would make it much better. I think I'll stop by the shop today. I'm also going to bring the camara for some more local photos. tchau
June 21, 2001
It´s been a week since I wrote anything here and of course so
much has happened. I realize it´s going to be impossible to
chronicle my experiences here during the final months in Brazil.
I had a frustrating morning thinking about all the things that I would
like to accomplish here before I leave and then I got that familiar overwelming
feeling. I´m trying to step out of that and focus on what is
really important for me right now. Certaining drinking from the cup
of Brazil is top on my list and I seem to be doing that just find.
I just wish I could let the experience soak in a bit also. There
is just so much here though and I just may not have time. If I can
back off and prioritize it might help. I´m going to spend the
weekend here in Campinas so I may have a chance to catch up. Last
weekend was demais. Which is a good thing. I don´t
think it should be interpreted as "too much" in a more literal sense.
Moving on, I´ve started using a list to organize my thoughts again.
I´ve fallen out of this over the last year and it´s been a
nice break but given that so much is going on I think it´s a good
thing. I´ve noticed how I tend to do the easy stuff that is
less relavant first. Perhpas I should just use the list to pick out
the pick things and try and target them only. I sound like I´m
beating up on myslef and maybe it´s just human nature to procrastinate...
It´s lunch and I´m bored. All the energy of the morning
has faded and I´m ready to take a knap. Last night I went to
a "Festa Junina" party. They have them all over Brazil in
June. They are more oriented toward kids but everyone seems to have
great memories of it and adults celebrate also. Basically everyone
dresses up hill-billy style (caipira) and they have all ssortso
f games and special food they eat. They also do square-dancing and
drink warm booze (quentão e vinho quente?). We had
a great time dancing. I´ll throw the photos up soon. (done!
see Festa
Junina)
June 13, 2001
Yesterday was Dia dos namorados in Brazil (Valentines Day). My
date on Sunday didn't go so well so that's the state of my love life right
now. I had a great day though because I found out that I will be
staying through the end of my contract, which is October 5th. This
is great news because now I have a concrete date which I can plan around.
It also gives me more time to prepare and acrue vacation. My rough
plan now is to hit the road at that point and be in southern baja at the
end of November (much cooler than September!) and meet Rick somewhere down
at the tip (La Paz sounds great to me). He'll drive my truck and
then we can head north in luxury. I may want a few rides in the truck
at this point also:).
Today is Wednesday and we have another fine four-day holiday courtesy
of Corpus Cristi. Myself, Mark, Flavio and Fernado are off to Minas
Gerais. This is the colonial capital of Brazil and I think it's going
to be a great time. I love this style of architecture, reminant of
my trips to Northern Mexico. They are also known for their down to
earth people, a very high female-to-male ratio and cheese. Should
be interesting. We are taking an all night bus to Belo Horizonte
leaving at 9:00 tonight. Cost was about $30 round trip. Inflation
contiunes tp plague this country. When I arrived here Last October
the rate was 1.84 Real to 1 dollar. It is now 2.35 roughly and climbing.
That's 22% in 8 months by my rough calculations. It's great for a
gringo like me but terrible for a country trying to plan for it's future.
It's morning now and I'm off to work. Looks for some great photos
on Monday.
June 10, 2001
Well I just got the site working and I've got a date later on this
evening so life is good right now. I hope to get into the habit of
dumping my thoughts here as a possible record for my life here in Brazil.
It's a little late as I have been here over eight months but then again
it's never to late is it?